Getting Greasy with Tony and Edwin

by Antonio Maristela

I don’t know where to start in regards to Gloria’s Barbeque of Pacific Beach. Located in the center of college-beachcombers-Garnet Avenue, no one would know that such an establishment could even exist in a street fraught with designer sushi rolls, gourmet health sandwiches, surf pubs, and chic coffee joints, but it does.

The establishment has been around for about three or four year since their grand opening. If you ‘Google’ it, you find more information of local unknown eaters giving their lip smacking two cents about their goods and bads. The bad ratings are less frequent than their supporting raves, but every point of view is in the voice of a spoiled, sheltered, and typical San Diegan cuisine afficionado with taste-buds exposed to the coastal cornucopia of fusion delicacies in extravagant wraps and spicy sauces. The ratings have worthy tidbits of warnings and disclaimers, but all are missing the point about Gloria’s BBQ.

First of all, the joint’s not meant to be recognized as a contender with the rest of the religious and trendy food rotations. You’re missing the point about why they look like a walk-in, order in front of the counter and slide forward to pay for cash, and yet still have a serving staff who actually seat you, take your order and provide you full service. But who really cares anyways? The fact is that Gloria’s BBQ deliveries an environment that promotes a safe, and comfortable dining pleasure. It may appear a little tight when the crowds arrive, but we’re in a beach city for God’s sake, the whole idea is that Gloria’s is prepared to expand itself and decompress to fit the unusually unique rush peaks and quiet lulls of Garnet walk traffic.

The foundation of Gloria’s concept is really a family run barbeque joint whose theme and focus is pulled-from-the-bone pork, steak, and chicken cuisines. The name is dedicated in honor of co-partner Edwin’s dear mother, who may very well be the recipe originator of their signature sauce or preparation technique. However, it is Edwin’s cousin, Tony, who is the executive chef. From his point of view, he considers himself “five star class worthy”.

Originally from Ohio, Gloria’s Barbeque eventually found its way literally within blocks from the Pacific Ocean. And with menus that include a barbeque pulled pork in a wrap with side orders of macaroni, potato salad or their famous cole slaw, it is obvious that Tony has distinguished the establishment in providing very creative and unique solutions in enjoying the essence of good barbeque, but keeping the dignity of barbeque style cuisine in traditional grace.

The cornbread may very well be a little dry, but cornbread isn’t meant to be moist and sweet, like the crack-like addictiveness of El Torito’s Mexican rendition of sweet cornbread that can easily become the meal in itself. In the south, cornbred is meant for soaking. And cleaning off the plate with cornbread even a little dry is indeed the compliment of enjoying the meal in its purest form.

Enjoy your next meal at Gloria’s. I guarantee you will not leave dissapointed when you realize that barbeque style meals are meant to be flavorful for all the senses.

This entry was posted on Monday, June 14th, 2010 at 5:34 pm and is filed under CURRENTS, Restaurants & Catering. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.